I haven't been on the blogline much lately but now its time to renew my approach in my original purposes; presenting an semi accurate picture of what I build and my views on surfing, surfboards, and the industry.
First and formost your surfboard is the most import thing you own as a surfer: example: you can have all the surfing talent in the world but if you don't own a surfboard -you are limited in your fun and (or) growth as a surfer but if you are a talented surfer and you own any board it may or may not be the best but at least you can gain experiance and have fun at the very least.
The decal or logo on your board has little or no bearing on how good it rides --the only thing that matters is does this board fit your size, the waves you will ride ,and your ability level. This is why off the rack surfboards or mass produced surfboards requadless of name or quality only go so far in functional, practical , workability! Part of the reason is they are designed for surfers of upper level ability (which 90%of us are not--ouch that hurt!!) or for really cool exotic type surf spots (which once again -most of us aren't riding). So requardless of quality or even design these aren't made for the masses (Joe-normals)even if KS's name is on it. What KS rides when He is 50-60 yrs old will be much more appropriate for average surfers than what He is riding now!
This theroy is not work surf shops and surf teams sell ---I am not attacking them as people but as a whole , they push the be like KS to the hilt,ride what our team rides, and the big name labels requadless if it (the surfboards) were designed for average surfers riding average waves or not. You are buying image and psudo-cool over basic practial function and fun---HEY ! WAIT A MINUTE ISN'T THAT WHY WE SURF or at least started surfing What the heck happened???
Most shapers at least many of the newer breed (last 20+ yrs) while never being much better than you at surfing (many are much worse--ouch that hurt again!!!) think by acting cool and knowledgable (notice I said ACTING) you will think they know more than they do, when in fact all their so called knowledge came from reading the same big name surfboard profiles you read and surfboard design forums on the internet--whats wrong with this ? THERE IS NO PERSONAL TIME PROVEN EXPERIENCE! and the bottom line is there probably never will be-they are pretending (acting ) to be something they aren't. Sorry , thats called being a phony.
We live in a very self indulgance society and we rally around the haves and not the have nots-my standard example of this is : EXAMPLE- you have a choice --you have to cross the Atlantic Ocean but you have to go by sea and there is a huge hurricane you have to go through; now your choice : you can get on a brand new ship w/all the latest & greatest do-dads w/ a heavily trained in all the best sailing schools staight A graduate w/ no trips under his belt or you can get on a rusted out needs paint must be 40 yrs old ship w/ a battle worn captian who has crossed through 100+ hurricanes un harmed! What do you choose? You face that everytime you go to buy a surfboard whether your a begginner or seasoned surfer, are you going for image over experience?
In closing (more insights later) as far as I am concerned I'm the guy who paid the price whethered the storms learned to surf w/the best and came all the way back to SURFING IS ABOUT FUN & FUNCTION not image. The contest scene and the shop scene is ruining surfing -basic prositution only problem too many are failing for it. Me, I as politicailly uncorrect as they come, I don't worship surfing - I do it for fun and I build surfboards for income because I know what I am doing and I love doing it. I do have to keep it all in focus God, family,work, play(surfing) the tendacy is to get this all in reverse and then all kinds of problems arise---think about that in your life most surfers have problems w/this--My goal to work on this myself and help other as well .
You surfboard is the most important toy you own as a surfer make it practical and have fun -share a wave and a smile, leave the Joe cool aggro image at the shops--Next post on shaping!!!!
